By Andrew, Great Miami Outfitters
This time last year, a few of us from the shop decided that we really wanted to try our hand at ice climbing. We are all paddlers, backpackers and rock climbers and working in a gear shop we just felt trapped by the darkness of coming to and leaving work. Our normal outdoor activities are cut down significantly at this time of year.
So, the first weekend in February 2019, we drove up to Munising, Michigan to try and climb ice and see if we could do it. We left early in the morning and arrived in the sandpoint parking lot in the early evening. We planned to camp that night in the backcountry. As often with an unfamiliar place and different weather elements of snow and frigid cold temperatures, it took the four of us longer to start our approach.
We ended up going back into town and getting some dinner and drove back to the rest stop we passed coming in to get a very uncomfortable night of sleep. The next morning we drove back to the trailhead and started our approach to the “Curtains.” When we arrived it didn’t matter about the terrible night of sleep or the fact that the short approach was tougher than we expected – especially since we loaded our packs with every imaginable thing we thought we needed. As soon as we saw the ice we were immediately re-energized and ready to go!
After two days of figuring out what worked best and what didn’t work so well, we were on our way home still buzzing with excitement – which lasted for about two weeks. Then, after work one night some of of us on shift went to get some pints and that’s when the next run up for more ice formulated! We decided, because we were going into our busy season and time was even more limited, that we should leave after work on Sunday – drive all through the night, which would put us at the trailhead again around 6am. We could start our approach to conquer a few new climbs that were suggested to us that we should try after our last trip. We could get back in the car at 6pm and drive straight back to be at work the next morning. Technically we would only be gone for one day while the shop was open and we would be back in time on Tuesday to teach a Backpacking Class and work our shifts.
We made it up to the trailhead at 6am and got out of the vehicle at -20F degrees and started our 2-mile approach to the first climb with huge (frozen) smiles on our faces. The new climbs were bigger and the approach in was longer. We gave it our all for 12 hours and then booked it back home on caffeine and excitement!
The buzz continued all through the spring and summer and I honestly don’t think a week went by we didn’t talk about our next trip up there – which climbs we were going to do etc. Well that time of year is back and I decided to ask a few expectation questions from the guys which are listed below, followed by some outcomes.
Our January 2020 Ice-Climbing Trip
Ben J’s Pre-Trip THOUGHTS
What do you think will be the hardest part of the trip?
When it is cold out and we are cramming so much in to our days I need to remember to hydrate and eat properly throughout the day.
What is your most essential piece of gear?
Warm gloves especially after last years trip and we got out of the vehicle at -20F!
What piece of gear do your really not need, but take anyway?
My camera or that 4th pair of gloves such a hard choice!!
What are you looking forward to the most?
Practicing rappelling and having the freedom to vertically move around to capture different angles instead of just standing on below and photographing up the whole time. Oh yeah and also not having to worry about freezing my a$$ off like last year 🙂
Any expectations for this trip?
Better knowledge and understanding of building anchors so I can really be where I want to be with my camera in hand.
What makes climbing ice (or photos) so addicting for you?
Being able to capture moments of a not so common/popular side of climbing.
Ben J’s Post-Trip REFLECTIONS
How did you pre-trip thoughts turn out?
I didn’t do any rappelling but still got to shoot a wide variety of ice formations. Bringing multiple pairs of gloves was key with the wet conditions. Didn’t need all my warm layers but they were still nice to have for the evenings and travel days.
What did you feel like was your best accomplishment of the trip?
Ice climbing for the first time and staying somewhat dry considering the temperature was hovering right at freezing – all of the ice was so wet!
What was the hardest part of the trip?
Balancing layers with weather and activity levels – the approaches were short but stout and then going straight to idle time in between climbs with the mix precipitation coming down.
If & when you go back up what would you change & why?
Be fully self sufficient in rigging and rappelling so I can do my own thing and allow the climbers to focus solely on rigging and climbing.
Andy’s Pre-Trip THOUGHTS
What are you looking forward to the most?
Just getting on the ice. It is such a short window of opportunity for us, that just having the chance to do it is the best part.
Any expectations from this trip?
I want to hone my technique. On my first trips I was really just feeling everything out but have been working hard on proper climbing technique to become a better climber.
What makes climbing ice so addicting for you?
It’s such an involved process. You have a ton of gear, you have to be precise in all of your climbing knowledge, and to top it off, you are battling terrible weather the entire time.
What do you think will be the hardest part of the trip?
The drive. It’s long, sometimes boring, but we still make the best of it.
What is your most essential piece of gear?
My boots. Having my own, well fitting, comfortable ice boots is the best thing I’ve done.
What piece of gear do your really not need, but take anyway?
Two-way radios. It’s not necessary, but it really does make communication between the ridges and the base of the climb a lot easier and ultimately safer.
Andy’s Post-Trip Reflections
How did you pre-trip thoughts turn out?
Pretty much as predicted. The wet weather ended up being a bit harder to deal with than expected. Heavy ropes and long, nasty approaches sucked too. Overall it was still what I expected.
What did you feel like was your best accomplishment of the trip?
Ticking off several routes and really paying attention to my technique. Learned some things that I will work on to keep improving.
What was the hardest part of the trip?
The hikes ended up being pretty hard. Wet weather ended up making the gear much heavier and it was pretty exhausting.
If & when you go back up what would you change & why?
I would pack several smaller stuff sacks with gear that I can change depending on the weather. One with real cold weather stuff and others making slight adjustments. Then I can just grab the bag I need and put it in my pack for the day.
Andrew’s Pre-Trip THOUGHTS
What are you looking forward to the most?
Seeing the ice again! It is just so magnificent and the fact that it changes from year to year makes a climb different each time!
Any expectations for this trip?
I want to climb each route at least 2 times and get at least 5 new climbs in that we did not do last year.
What makes climbing ice so addicting for you?
I think it is a couple of different things to tell you the truth. I think one thing is that I have never really had a winter sport and ice-climbing just feels so right! I also think that it is a discipline that is so new to me that it has re-energized a sort of excitement within that I have taken for granted or lost with my other outdoor activities. I also think that it has given a new outlook on those other activities that I have semi taken for granted.
What do you think will be the hardest part of the trip?
The approaches as usual, I don’t know why but they always kick my butt!
What is your most essential piece of gear?
This year having my own boots and tools, but I think on these types of trips everything comes into the essential gear category.
What piece of gear do your really not need, but take anyway?
4 pairs of gloves, I really could’ve narrowed it down – but why, right?
Andrew’s Post-Trip REFLECTIONS
How did you pre-trip thoughts turn out?
Expectations absolutely met and can’t wait for the next run up there in a few weeks!
What did you feel like was your best accomplishment of the trip?
For me it was being able to climb 6 new routes – which is one more than my minimum goal and also climbing each one multiple times was just great. I just didn’t want to stop.
What was the hardest part of the trip?
The warmer temps, it was great but it really made everything so wet and we only were up there for two days of climbing so it was an adjustment to deal with.
If & when you go back up what would you change & why?
I am going to get more organized with my gear so when we get to the trailhead we can grab and go versus taking so much time to pack the gear based on the conditions for the day. Other than that not much this go around. The third time up there was a lot more comfortable for sure.
This trip was definitely different than the weather we had the previous two trips for sure. Daytime was in the low 30’s and nights didn’t really vary from that much either. Andy and I climbed and Ben J explored and photographed. It was just another great trip where we were a lot more relaxed and I think most of it was because we had a much better idea of where to go and more of what to expect. We were able to climb 6 new routes and explore a section that we just didn’t go to the last times and it was just amazing. We are looking forward to the next run up there for sure!
The Trail Post 